We stopped here on Top Deck after gay Paree.

Driving through the Swiss countryside listening to Bon Iver was cool. Cold. Everything looked like the album cover for For Emma. We stayed in wooden cabins in a camping ground, driving in after the sun went down. Looking up, the sky seemed to possess a strange milky ring around the centre of the sky, the inky black interrupted by this jagged white. It was as if the black was a curtain, with moth eaten holes giving us glimpses of the galaxy above. Then I realised that they were the snowy caps of the mountains that towered menacingly over us in the valley.

After a night of drinking in the bar, we woke to fresh, knee deep snow. Breakfast was endless cups of coffee, porridge with cinnamon, and delicious cheeses on thickly cut fresh bread. We explored the town, seemingly inhabited by ghosts (it was Sunday) and took the chairlift and train up to Mürren to frolic in the snow which was endlessly fascinating.

We walked to the frozen wasserfallen, stopping to pet lambs penned next to a building with an ominous symbol of an axe on it, and played in a playground situated right next to a graveyard. Walking past the church, I pressed an ear against the door to listen to the organ and was bombarded with snowballs.

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